The Science of Big Waves

1. They are formed by wind and start off as little ripples and begin to get bigger until they reach the shoreline and break.
2. Where it is going to break on the wave, where it is going to break in relation to distance in front or behind the surfer.

1. The wave has a sort of peak and it breaks there, causing a very steep drop on the wave, but the barrel is very thin and hard for the surfers to get in.
2. They are formed by a high and low pressure system in the arctic ocean, you need fetch, wind speed and how long the wind has been blowing for the waves to become good.
3. They are formed because of the rocks on the ocean floor acting like a speed bump. It breaks on a reef causing the peak like formation.
4. The energy is more concentrated on the headlands, or the point. The energy of the wave is beneath it and when it comes closer to shore the ocean floor pushes all the energy up making the wave bigger.
5. 'To run in there and catch a wave before you get taken by the wrath of God'