All Vocab list

Quiz #2
7.3
aeolian - also known as wind
spinifex - a type of grass that 'traps' sand
constructive waves - waves that push the sand back to the beach
corrasion - occurs when waves crash over rock shelves and move rock and other material helping to erode the rock shelf away
corrosion - the action of salt on minerals like iron that are contained in rock, weakening the rock and making i more susceptible to erosion
refraction - the bending of waves around headlands and into bays
deposition - the depositing of sand and rock particles caused by wind and wave action forming features such as beaches
destructive waves - large waves formed by tropical cyclones and storms that erode material from beaches
erosion - the removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action
hydraulic action - where waves enter cracks in rocks, air is compressed y the force of the water causing erosion and forming features such as blow hole
longshore drift - when waves come in on an angle and push the sand to one end of the beach

Quiz #3
7.4
erosion-accretion cycle
groynes -
revegetation -
sea walls -

7.5
rock wall
beach nourishment
sand bar

7.7
environmental impact study -
impact assessment -

Quiz #4
7.8
bitou bush -
marram grass -  
noxious weed -  
foredune

hind dune
tertiary species
fore dune
off-shore bar
incipient dune
beach berm
secondary species

7.9
anemometer -
hygrometer -

Homework - Bombora

Bombora is an Aboriginal term for an area of large waves breaking over a shallow area such as a submerged rock shelf, reef or sand bank that is located some distance from the shoreline and beach surf break.

As the wave passes over the shallow area its shape is raised and steepened, creating a localized wave formation. The size and shape of the Bombora waves make them attractive to surfers. They can be quite dangerous to surf on because of the size and the shallowness of the water over a submerged rock shelf or sand bank/bar.

Bombora waves are formed far out at sea, this is known as ground swell. They start off as ripples caused by the wind and slowly become bigger as they come to shore. As the energy hits the rock shelf or sand bar, it gets pushed up causing the wave to suddenly rise and making the waves very big.

The conditions that make the Bombora waves are the biggest is: storm far out to sea previous days, and high tide also makes the waves bigger. Bombora waves are quite rare and only happen in certain parts of the world.

The picture below shows a typical bombora spot. At Queenscliff near the headlands you can see a submerged rock platform and this pushes the wave up to its unique shape.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kr9yN4qFLP4

the video link above ^^ is of some bombora waves. They people bodyboarding the waves are 14 kilometres out to sea on a shallow reef. The wave is massive, 15-20 feet but not very wide. The wave only forms over the reef which isn't very wide either. At 2:15 you can see that the wave ends very suddenly and this is because the reef finished and drops back down to the bottom of the ocean.

The Science of Big Waves

1. They are formed by wind and start off as little ripples and begin to get bigger until they reach the shoreline and break.
2. Where it is going to break on the wave, where it is going to break in relation to distance in front or behind the surfer.

1. The wave has a sort of peak and it breaks there, causing a very steep drop on the wave, but the barrel is very thin and hard for the surfers to get in.
2. They are formed by a high and low pressure system in the arctic ocean, you need fetch, wind speed and how long the wind has been blowing for the waves to become good.
3. They are formed because of the rocks on the ocean floor acting like a speed bump. It breaks on a reef causing the peak like formation.
4. The energy is more concentrated on the headlands, or the point. The energy of the wave is beneath it and when it comes closer to shore the ocean floor pushes all the energy up making the wave bigger.
5. 'To run in there and catch a wave before you get taken by the wrath of God'

7.3 Questions

1. Erosion, transportation and deposition.
2. Wave refraction is when the waves energy is refracted causing the wave to be more concentrated in certain areas compared to others.
3.












4.Around the headlands is when erosion most occurs.
5. Hydraulic Action, corrasion and corrosion.
6. Erosion-accretion cycle is when the sand is taken away by big waves and then it forms a sand bar, then the waves slow push the sand back into place on the beach making it a cycle.
7. Wind, waves and ocean currents
8. Beaches
9. Wind causes the sand to travel towards inland but then it gets trapped by low-lying vegetation. Over time this will cause a sand dune

10. The waves come in on an angle and push the sand to one side of the beach.
11. Headlands - Hydraulic Action, corrasion and corrosion all have a part in eroding the headlands
Wave cut platform - hydraulic action, corrasion and corrosion all 'cut' through the cliff making a platform
Beaches - long shore drift, destructive waves, erosion-accretion cycle
Sand dunes - the wind causes the sand to go inland and this can cause a dune to form
12. It provides a buffer zone for the fragile plant life.
13. a. located off the great ocean road in Victoria
b. they have been there for roughly 20 millions years
c. They were created by the sea gradually eroding the soft limestone cliffs.
d. The London Bridge was an arch made of rock that collapsed in 1990.
e. Maybe. If barriers were placed around the apostles then it may prevent them from collapsing or a break wall or something. This would take a long time and a lot of money so it is unlikely.
14. The 12 apostles behind me are from rock formed up to 20 millions years ago. They were created by the sea gradually eroding the soft limestone cliffs. Eventually all of these will fall down if action is not taken towards them.

7.1 Questions

1. 85% of the Australian population live on the coast.
2. It is the aim of coastal management strategies to keep the development of the coastline sustainable because they want future generations to be able to have no worries in living on the coast.
3. When people move from the city and start a new life near the sea
4. the government have made the population cap of towns up.
5. Pollution - people not using their rubbish properly, carbon emissions from cars
Population Growth - sea change, people want better work
Tourism - people are becoming more familiar with the world and want to travel more.
6.

7.2 Questions

1. The wind forms ripples, then wavelets and then finally waves.
2. The distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave is called the fetch.y the strength of the wind and the size and speed of the waves is influenced by the length of the fetch.
3. When the waves get closer to shore they start to interact with the floor.

4.

5.
6. Spilling waves: break far from the shore with gentle slopes.
Plunging waves: break on the beach with a moderately steep slope.
surging waves: toll up the steep face rather than breaking over it, cause erosion
7. A wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency of waves hitting the coast. A ground swell forms when waves have traveled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast. A ground swell has a longer wavelength and the waves hit the coast less frequently.
8. It was out at sea for 36 hours, and then it hit the Queensland coast. From 5am March 20 to 9pm March 21 it went through Queensland and destroyed a lot of home, buildings, farmland, etc.
9. There are three different types of waves: spilling waves, they break far from the shore and are probably the best for swimming at the beach. Plunging waves, they break on beaches with a moderate slope and form a tube, these are good for you if you like to board ride. Surging waves, roll  up the beach instead of breaking onto it.
10. The waves were all calm on the first day and it looked as if there was no problem, but the second day everything changed. The waves were massive and a lot of seaweed and debris had washed up on the beach, the weather was horrible with the grey clouds above and no one on the beach. The cyclone was about 10 kilometres off shore and it was very very windy. The rain came without warning and hit the window of the lifeguard tower like a bullet. The waves were getting even bigger than I imagined and then it hit. The wind was enormous and the rain hurt when it hit you. The next day debris was everywhere and the streets covered in silt.

Quiz #1
7.1
breakwaters - A barrier that protects a harbor or shore from the full impact of waves.
silting - A sedimentary material consisting of very fine particles intermediate in size between sand and clay
sea change - when people move from the city to start a new life by the sea

urban stormwater - stormwater that can contain sediment, bacteria, heavy metals and organic chemicals into the ocean.

silting - when a floor bed gets covered with silt


tidal flushing - an action of saltwater estuary during high tide twice a day

dredging - Clean out the bed of (a harbor, river, or other area of water) by scooping out mud, weeds, and rubbish with a dredge.

introduced plants - plants that have been introduced from other countries.

7.2
ground swell - when waves travel a longer distance of ocean before hitting the coast.
plunging waves - break on the beach where the slope is moderately steep.
spilling waves - break far from the shore with gentle slopes
surging waves - occure on steep beaches, the waves roll up the steep face reather than breaking over it, causing erosion.
wind swell - when waves travel only a short distance of ocean before hitting the beach.
wave height - the vertical distance between the trough and the peak of a wave
wavelength - the horizontal distance between wave peaks
fetch - the distance that wind travels over the ocean to form waves
surf and swash zone - The area where the waves break.